3-6 Days in the French Riviera
The most extraordinary place, so full of life and color. Situated along the coast of France, the Riviera is the mediterranean coastline of the southeast corner of France. It is easily the most beautiful place I had ever seen, brilliant blue water and candy-colored buildings stacked up against the sea. Markets spilling out into cobblestone streets, castles tucked into hillsides. While I wish I had longer on the coast, due to the accessibility of the trains, you really can see a lot in a few days.
Below are four days on the coast, but it can easily be spread into six or seven. I walked a LOT and drank approximately seventeen cappuccinos to keep me awake - so if you’re in the mood to walk about 32,000 steps a day and see a lot in a short amount of time, this is for you. But feel free to take and do these recommendations in any amount of time that suits you.
ARRIVAL / TRANSPORT / STAYING —
I flew in from Brighton, UK, on a trip to see a few friends there and in London, so it was a short flight into Cote de Azur airport as the sun rose over the water. I took the tram from the airport, which cost 1.50 Euro, and is a really easy way to get around Nice - trams can take you anywhere you need to go. Transportation was rather easy around all of the South, and the tram went directly to where I was staying. The train will be your main source of transport to get up and down the coast, and you can get tickets right at the station. They typically cost only 2-7 Euros, and I would recommend looking at departure times before heading over. Trains leave frequently, but it is helpful to know just when.
Hotel Ozz is an American owned hotel, which I felt would make things easier and relatively safe for me as a solo traveler. They had great reviews, breakfast, views, and it is a 5 minute walk from the train station where I would be taking the train to Paris later that week. The lobby was popping with other young travelers, and the hotel offered a number of tours, bar nights, games, etc., which I appreciated, and would recommend for anyone traveling on their own. If you want a more authentic, French stay, I would recommend an Air BnB, of which there are plenty.
O L D N I C E
Place Messena
Upon arrival, the hotel stored my bags until I could check in at 3pm, and I wandered off to Old Nice with my camera. There are a lot major commercial retail shops along the main strip, and if you walk all the way down, you’ll find Place Messena, a huge, open, salmon-colored plaza with beautiful archways and a fountain the middle.
I wandered to Marche Aux Fleurs where stands of fresh flowers and fruits and nuts spilled onto the street under bright colored umbrellas in the brilliant noon-day sun. I bought some fresh white peaches and green grapes from a man with a mustache for two euros, and wandered off towards the sea. I came to this market everyday for breakfast.
There is a wide walking path called Quai de Anglais which stretches for miles down the beach, which I followed for awhile, and then walked up the coast and around a cliff to the Old Port - a huge, open water area with huge boats and tiny colored sailboats bobbing in the sea. I wandered into an old flea market full of antiques and sweet old French men eating sandwiches, called Le Puces de Nice, and bought a tiny coin purse from an old woman with bright blue eyes. I stopped for a cappuccino at Le Corsaire, a brasserie with Corsican food (many people come into the port from the tiny island off the coast), to read a book and fight off the sleep I missed from my early flight. There were plenty of other cafes along the water, and you can’t go wrong with any of them, especially if you’re in the mood for seafood. Ritual which is an American cafe was also there, the only place I saw a cold brew for my entire trip.
I kept wandering by foot, simply because I like to walk and stop and take photos, but you can also take the bus or tram along the coast. I wandered to Le Plongenoir. a restaurant on a rock in the middle of the Mediterranean, for a glass of wine, and some of the most gorgeous views I had ever seen. I highly recommend this place, but try to make a reservation beforehand if you want to eat there. As a general rule, most places will let you always get a cappuccino or a glass of wine at any hour, but some close and re-open before dinner, so plan meals accordingly. Le Lavomatique is also a must for dinner when in Old Nice.
Next I walked to Coco Beach, a tiny little public beach, perfect for swimming and cliff diving. I continued on to Le Saint Paul, a giant pink mansion, and saw the Villa Beau Site which was a tiny castle overlooking the water. At this point I wanted to take transport, so I hopped on the bus and took it towards Villefranche-Sur-Mer, which is the cutest little village, and a must-see while in Nice.
V I L L E F R A N C H E - S U R - M E R
The bus wound up taking me to the top of a cliff overlooking the water, so to get down to the sand, I had to walk through a back path through little homes and tiny, candy-colored streets. It wound up being the most beautiful little walk, and I wandered into a gelato store on a backroad, and bought sunglasses from a nice man who owned a tiny shop.
Next, I headed to Plage Villefranche Sur Mer, which is a tiny little beach with glittery water and soft sand. I got a glass of wine and a croque monsieur and blackberry gelato on the water, at a tiny cafe called Le Voile Bleue, but there were plenty of darling places on the water I would also recommend - La Mere Germaine and DRY, which has the cutest pale pink exterior.
You can take the train from the Villefranche Sur Mer stop back to Old Nice, which is what I did. I checked into my hotel and took a much-needed nap, and wandered to La Gare Du Sud, which is a big open food hall, for dinner. I highly recommend this place if you want a variety of options. It’s relatively affordable too.
The next day, I awoke to brisk air and sunshine, out for a run along the water. I ran up to Castle Hill/Chateau De Nice, which has incredible views of the entire city and water, and you can hike up the hill as well. I bought fruit from the market and a cappuccino on my way back to the hotel, and headed out to my adventures of the day. In my other morning adventures in Nice, I did my usual run on the water, but stopped for coffee at a restaurant on the sand called Place Bella Nissa, which served a little breakfast package. A lot of places do this in the morning as well, and you can sit right on the sand.
M E N T O N
I took the train to Menton, which is a little coastal town situated on the border of Italy, known for its pizza and lemons and 316 days a year of sunshine.
When I got in, I walked along the beaches and explored tiny antique markets that spilled out along the cobblestone streets. There are plenty of places to get lunch and they all right on the water. Le Galion, Le Cyrnos, and more all looked lovely, and I wound up getting a margarita pizza and watching the sea. I wandered to the Basilica, a beautiful old structure tucked up into a hill, and explored some of the narrow streets. There is a beautiful art museum called the Jean Cocteau Muesem, and some beautiful gardens as well, Le Val Rahmeh. I tasted Limoncello from a little store - highly recommend, it’s WILD (and very strong), and bought a little gold bracelet from a nice man selling antiques on a corner.
M O N A C O
Next, I took the train to Monaco, off at the Monte Carlo stop. Monaco is a tiny little country on the coast, with its own royal family and castles and statehood. It was probably the most stunning place I had ever seen, and the entire place looks like something out of a film. People selectively driving Porsches or Vespas, casinos and huge stores and yachts and museums - opulent wealth and ridiculous beauty all through the tiny county carved into a cliffside.
You can shop at the Main Course, which has all your commercial spots. I highly recommend walking up to the palace, it’s on a hill overlooking basically the entire country, and normally you can tour the place, but COVID has it shut town. It’s worth it to see the views, and you can see the beautiful colored streets, especially one named after Grace Kelly, former princess who was also a beautiful American actress. There is a beautiful garden named after her as well, next to the huge Musée Océanographique de Monaco. Even if you don’t go inside, the views are spectacular, and there are a few hidden beaches down the cliffside if you look carefully. The Saint Nicholas Cathedral and the Chapelle de la Visitation are also up on that same hill.
Next, I wandered down the cliffs and to the port, full of massive yachts and tiny sail boats all bobbing in the wind. I walked to the famous Monte Carlo Casino, which looks like something straight out of a James Bond movie. There were nothing but Lambourginis and Rolls Royce’s parked out front, so I sat at Cafe Du Paris (very famous restaurant) for a drink and watched men come and go with their bags of money. There are plenty of incredible restaurants over here, including Le Grill, Le Bar American, and Buddha Bar. This place is also littered with designer stores and high-end fashion. I walked back down to have a more casual meal on the water at Caffe Milano, watching the yachts bob in the sunset.
C A N N E S
Cannes is home to the most famous film festival in the world, which happens every summer, and it’s a place known for its chic shopping and iconic ocean views. i took the train from Nice, and walked Rue d’Antibes, which is the famous stretch of shops. The street behind it also is home to some of the cutest restaurants and cafes. Le Cirque is a great coffee shop and place for lunch, and Federal has some of the best salads.
I walked to see the famous Carlton Hotel, and to the Promenade de la Croissette, which is a beautiful place to see the coastline. You can take a little train tour for 15 Euros, which is a cute way to see the city. The buses also have a second deck, so sitting on top and riding around is another cheap hack to see more.
The Palais des Festivals et des Congres is where the iconic film festival happens, and I highly recommend seeing it, and the little star walk where celebrities have thier handprints in the cement. Head over to Marche Forville across the street for some sweet vintage pieces, handmade art, and antiques, and explore the International Photography Museum or the Museum of Art History.
A N T I B E S
Antibes is a beautiful medieval village on the coast. Picasso lived and painted here, and when you arrive, you can see why he made a residency here. There are two major train stops for Antibes, one called Antibes, and one called Juan Les Pins. The Antibes stop will put you more in the center of the village, but JLP will take you to the other side, with the resorts and coastal restaurants and live jazz.
I took the train to Antibes and wandered the village and went to the Chateau Grimaldi, which is where Picasso once lived and worked, as well as the Marche Provencal. There is a beautiful market and streets that transport you to another era, as well as an Absinthe Museum which is hidden and underground, and a really fun experience.
On the other side of Antibes, there are some of the most beautiful hotels, including Hotel Du Capp, which is perfect for a drink, and the Belles Rives, a personal favorite, with a piano bar designed and inspired by F. Scott Fitzgerald’s Tender is the Night. I walked over, but I would recommend an Uber, since the journey is long. I ended the night with some of the best rigatoni I’ve ever had, at a little place called Cap Riviera, right on the water.
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Overall, the French Riviera is absolutely incredible, and if you are willing to plan a little and walk a bit, you can see a lot in a short amount of time. Breathe it all in deeply and take lots of photos, drink many cappuccinos and buy as much fresh fruit and seafood as you possibly can. C’est parfait.